Quito

Quito keeps the best-preserved colonial center in the Americas at 2,850 meters, in an alley of volcanoes. Forty churches in one square kilometer, and one of them — La Compañía — spent seven tons of gold leaf saying amen. Above, the Pichincha; below, the longest, narrowest city on the continent, hanging from the equator that gave the country its name.

The sensible traveller takes the casco early: the Plaza Grande with its palace, San Francisco and its enormous forecourt, La Ronda restored for the late afternoon. Climb the Panecillo, or ride the teleférico up the Pichincha if the sky opens, and keep one morning for the Middle of the World — the Intiñán museum over the painted line, though the painted line has its charm too.

The Guide's honesty: altitude is respected on day one — walk slowly, lunch lightly —; the weather delivers its four seasons before dinner, so carry layers and an umbrella; and the old town at night is walked where the people are, as in every Andean capital: La Ronda yes, the empty lanes no.